Link to the recording
On Labour Day, young weaves from Kachchh - Rajiben Murji Vankar (Avadhnagar), Suresh Parbat Vankar & Krishna Velji Vankar (Sarli), Vinod Bhanji Vankar & Mansukh Vankar (Kotay), Suresh Vankar (Adhor), Arun Meghji Vankar (Rudramata) and Ashok Ramji Vankar (Bhujodi) - joined us for a webinar with 70 participants, sharing their journeys as traditional handloom weavers of a new generation and how the COVID 19 crisis is affecting them.
This was a first of a kind webinar, where weavers joined us on a call through their mobile phones, all speaking from their villages, spread across Kachchh, the north-western district of Gujarat. This region is semi-arid, has rich biodiversity and is rich in craft practices like weaving, printing, dyeing, metal and wood crafts, and pottery to name a few.
Being prone to natural disasters, the people of this region (mainly farmers and pastoralists) are a resilient community who have always survived through crises through their traditional ways of living. But numerous changes, like opening up of markets, external influences, formal education systems, and the earthquake of 2001, had been influencing them to give-up their traditional crafts-based occupations, migrate to the cities in search of work.
In 2007, Khamir, a craft resource centre, was founded by Abhiyan and Nehru Foundation for Development, with the aim to facilitate the conservation of the crafts of Kutch, through innovation, design, technology and market research. Over the past 13 years, Khamir has been working closely with the communities across Kachchh and has revived the handloom weaving, an important occupation, through the effort of inspired youth and women of this community.
Sharing by the weavers
Rajiben Vankar became widowed with 3 children and no means of income. She was then inspired by Khamir to use a skill she had learnt from her uncle as a mere hobby, and made it her livelihood. 10 years hence, today, she is on her way to becoming an entrepreneur with her brand Rajiben.com being supported by Karigar Clinic.
Arun Vankar, Vinod Vankar and Mansukh Vankar, are young designer artisans, who have studied at Handloom School in Maheshwar and Somaiya Kala Vidyalaya (SKV) in Kutch, come together as friends and now partners of a collaborative brand called Kallori.
Suresh and Krishna Vankar are a brother-sister duo, who have both studied at SKV, and are now helping in expanding their father’s enterprise through innovation and design. Krishna was the first young lady weaver in her village and has now become an inspiration to many young girls. Earlier, women in Kachchh were not allowed to work on a handloom, as weaving was always considered a man’s job. But over the past decade or so with weavers like Rajiben emerging in the forefront, this has become a sought-after skill to learn by the young girls of most families.
Suresh Vankar had given up weaving and moved from his village to work in a mill. Very soon, he realised that working on his loom gives him a sense of freedom and independence which is more precious to him for living a happy life. He is now on the way to becoming an entrepreneur, as he has started distributing work to other weavers in his village to fulfil his orders.
Ashoke Ramji Vankar, is the 3rd generation of the celebrated Vankar Vishram Valiji family of Bhujodi. Ashoke is now learning the art of Natural Dyeing especially Indigo, as the family wants to build a completely independent supply chain for the handloom fabrics they produce.
After the covid hit the country, most of the weavers shared that their work has slowed down. They have no more raw material like yarn to continue weaving. They are worried about the market sales but are being patient to wait and watch. They are satisfied with their current markets and wish that they continue to get the same patronage, and they feel they will be fine.
Talking of emerging trends, they shared that the use of local materials (indigenous cotton of Kachchh) is likely to grow, and that the future of their local sheep wool project was also looking good.
Though the craft industry is the second largest sector generating employment after farming, the Government in its 72 years of independent history has failed to give it its due importance and visibility.
But, what we learnt through this webinar is that our craftspeople are a resilient force, and they will continue to weave their stories as long as they continue to get the right patronage and platforms from the civil society.
When asked how they can be supported, they suggested on pre-ordering as something that can really help artisan communities. One of the immediate positive outcomes of the webinar was the offer mde by Manas Arvind, the co-founder of Gurgaon Farmer’s Market, to sell their products to the GOFM community in Gurgaon through their online portal. Since then, other offers to connect with and support them have been coming in.
To get in touch with craftspeople of Kachchh, you can write to Ghatit Laheru, Director of Khamir – ghatit.laheru@gmail.com.
If you are interested in knowing more about engagement with the craft communities in India, you can write to our Vikalp Varta volunteer, Juhi Pandey – studiojuhi@gmail.com.
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